Montevideo, Uruguay – the home of meat and eclectic architecture.

I once worked with a lady from Uruguay who taught me a few cooking tricks I still use – so I always knew they were big on food, but until we arrived I didn’t realize how big!!!

This small country between Argentina and Brazil has a population of just over 3 million, half of whom live in the capital Montevideo.  And 13 million head of cattle.  The people are very sociable and proud of their city with a rather wicked sense of humour - much of this blog information came from our highly entertaining tour guide.  I'm not sure I'd write this all as fact, but it sure makes for a good blog.

The politics and economy has been up and down since it was first granted nationhood in 1828 – ostensibly as a buffer zone between the two larger countries.  Unlike the more western countries in South America, there are practically no indigenous people left.  They were basically eradicated and the country is not proud of this black spot on their history.

Memorial to the last indigenous family

The Spanish were initially not really interested in the country as it had no gold, silver or precious stones until they realised what great farming land it was.  Widespread immigration from Europe occurred at the end of the 1800s mainly from Italy and Spain; these migrants developed the farms and agriculture remains a principal industry.  More recently, a free trade agreement between Brazil and Argentina has meant the closure of many smaller industries as they are no longer economically viable for Uruguay.  The trains stopped running years ago.   However the compactness of the population and good education has also meant a boon to service industries as many companies are choosing to outsource parts of their business – a sort of Spanish Call Centre hub - in Montevideo.

Uruguay does have two noted events

1.       The First FIFA Soccer World Cup – held in 1930 and won by them – they also won in 1950 and have been busy exporting players since and

2.       The Battle of the River Plate – the first naval altercation of World War 2 where the German Captain of the pocket battleship Admiral Graf Spee scuttled the ship on 17 December 1939; the ship’s anchor was retrieved and is on display in the Port.

Anchor of Admiral Graf Spee

The capital Montevideo – I could find 5 versions of the origin of the name of the city and two are officially taught in school (?) – was named in 2006 the most liveable city in Latin America.  It enjoys a quite pleasant climate – it has a huge beach front in the middle of the city like a smaller version of Rio.  Though it is actually a fresh water beach as it forms part of the 350 km wide estuary of the Rio de la Plata - River Plate and the Uruguay River.

Beach meets city 

It is relatively safe (though five couples from our ship were quite badly mugged yesterday) and it takes its art and culture seriously.  Even the souvenirs have (relative) taste.

Talking of taste this is the city of meat.  Our tour guide quoted they know that they should eat vegetables for their health, but as they’re not sick, why bother?  Across the road from where the ship is docked is the Mercado del Puerto.  This open fire BBQ market was made famous following a visit from Anthony Bourdain who could not believe how good the food was.

Meat BBQ at Mercado del Puerto

And we had dinner there yesterday AND lunch today – it’s just amazing.  Washed down with a good local red – who could ask for more???

Steak anyone???

The title of this blog also mentions the eclectic architecture of the city – it is really quite a mix of old colonial, modern and very bizarre Art Deco.  I’ll let the photos speak for themselves – I’ll let you make up your mind whether it’s good or bad.

The most iconic is the Palacio Salvo finished in 1928, for decades the tallest building in South America and still the largest concrete structure.  There are 33 palm trees in the main square - this is a reference to the 33 years that J Christ was alive and is a Masonic symbol - they apparently have some influence in politics here.

The  Palacio Legislativo.  Its original architect died before completion in 1925 - and the legend goes his planned title for the building died with him and they couldn't agree on what to call it so the left the large marble plaque over the entrance blank.

Palacio Legislativo

The old Naval Headquarters currently under restoration

Colonial Streetscapes - these are slowly been restored

And the fully restored Teatro Solis  from 1856

Teatro Solis

The Torre Antel telecommunication tower.  This photo is from Wikipedia as I just couldn't get this angle - it is the national joke - supposedly designed to look like a sail and a cell phone - all anyone can think of is the Burj al Arab Hotel in Dubai - it has multiple structural issues and had enormous cost overruns - but so did the Sydney Opera House.

     

Torre Antel Montevideo 2002                 Burj Al Arab Hotel Dubai 1999