Quiz - where are we?

Trivia time - where are we?

At the beach?

Japan?

Skiing?

Australia?

Bavaria?

The Himalayas?

Or around Puerto Montt in Chile?

Of course, the last is correct - Paul with the llama is a give away.  This remote region at the start of the Chilean fjords and Patagonia was initially developed in the post Colombian period in the 1850s as previous habitation was sparse and the land covered by dense forest.  In a effort to expand the region  German immigrants were encouraged to clear the area, enticed by attractive land grants.  The land was supposed to resemble the climate of parts of Germany and they brought their crops, fruit trees and cattle with them and their farming achievements and descendants remain. 

The outstanding natural beauty of the area was recognised more recently and it has become a local tourist destination incorporating the OrsonoVolcano, Lake Llanquihue, the fringe of the Andes and Petrohue Falls.  Both lupins and fuchsia are endemic to this area;  more recently a huge farmed salmon business has been established in the pristine waters.

We were told it rained 300 days a year, but it's obvious we had a glorious day. Here's some more photos of the stunning Orsono Volcano and Lake Llanquihue:

Valparaiso, Chile – Wow!

This major Chilean port has been on my ’must do’ list since I was about 8 – it’s hard to explain why – but at least visiting it has realised that dream in a very delightful way.

Most ports are a bit tatty almost anywhere in the world and we rather like that slightly run down, but colourful character they retain - and Valparaiso certainly did not let us down.

Colourful buildings; Naval Headquarters Museum at top

It retains a strong Naval identity – developed in part by an Englishman called Lord Thomas Cochrane in the early 1800s just after Chile’s independence from Spain.    He based its structure on the British Navy and elements of that remain today.   Chile is a ‘shoe-string’ country with an enormous coastline in relation to its land area and the British Naval sentiment that you cannot be a master of your country unless you are also a master of your seas continues here. 

Naval Headquarters  - Main  CitySquare

Valparaiso is also the birthplace of John Christian (Chris) Watson (1867 – 1941) Australia’s 3^rd (and first Labour) Prime Minister - for a few months in 1904.

It’s built over a number of hills rather like San Francisco and in common with that city is subject to earthquakes: both cities suffered devastating earthquakes in 1906 and Valparaiso continues to do so, most recently in February 2010.  It was granted UNESCO World Heritage status (again) in 2003.

Although established in the 16^th century by the Spanish, it did not really get going until the Navy was established in 1818 and worldwide trade routes were opened.  Few buildings survive from the pre 1906 earthquake – this is the oldest official building from the 1850s with one of the original 1952 trolley buses – not a great photo but you get the idea.

Contrast of downtown Valparaiso

The city thrived from the mid 1850s but with opening of the Panama Canal in 1914, things went downhill rather rapidly as clearly a new, shorter trade route was available. In recent years however, the increase in the size of ships and the new Trans America Highway between Brazil and Chile has revived the port, though the effect of the opening of the new third (wider) lock in 2014 in Panama is unknown.

View from Ascensore rail

The shipping trade however also provided the city with its building materials: the ships carrying saltpetre from Chile arrived with ballast from Europe and America of Oregon pine, corrugated iron and stone.  These built the houses and roads respectively – even the most elegant of houses has corrugated iron facades reminiscent to us of both Kalgoorlie and Broken Hill – and the Oregon pine was certainly featured in Fremantle for probably the same reason.

Corrugated iron elegance?

Unlike the more Northern countries of South America, the part of South America was fairly sparsely populated pre Spanish conquest.  This meant that people of many nationalities settled here and this is reflected in the mish-mash of architectural styles, food and people that make it so endearing.  Despite its Heritage listing some of the colour restrictions that apply to some sites in the world are not enforced in Valparaiso.  The houses were generally painted with whatever paint was left over from repairing a ship in port and this still applies today.

Variety is the spice....

To add to the character, there are funny little ‘ascensores’ – funicular railways – that get everyone around the steep streets.  There are still 12 operating today and people use them with the indifference of using a pedestrian crossing – a trip is about 30 cents.

Ascensore funicular railway

The oldest ascensore station in Valparaiso

Sadly, many of these photos were taken in the morning when it was cloudy, but bright sunshine from noon highlighted the cities vibrancy even more.  It’s not a spot for everyone – dogs roam the streets at will, building maintenance is optional, graffiti really is everywhere, wiring haphazard and the always impending earthquakes could be off putting but we, and many others, can’t wait to return.

Delightful disrepair

We’re on our way to Puerto Montt still in Chile and potentially the start of true cold weather – we’re already further south than I have ever been.  It will be our first tender port (where the ship drops anchor and then you climb on a smaller boat to get ferried in, I didn't realise what that meant before) – what fun!

Coquimbo and La Serena, Chile with Bill

Hi. This is a popular holiday destination for Chilean families because of its 14km beach. There is a local monument like a lighthouse and I made some new friends there!

We've all been a bit sick the last few days, but everyone is getting better now.

The Chilean fjords are coming up soon, and so are the penguins!!!

See you soon.

Bill

“Peru is a beggar sitting on a gold bench” - Arequipa

So said Italian Naturalist Antonio Raimondo in the 19^th century and it’s sometimes how they describe themselves.  Their pre Colombian use for gold was to create purely decorative items, it had no other use as it was too soft; ditto goes for silver.  Mining, however, is a very much part of their existing economy although as tourists we see only the periphery of it.

We travelled from the port of Matarani to Peru’s second largest city Arequipa along the Pan American highway across parts of the Atacama Desert, the driest place on earth.  They get about 200 mms of rain every 30 years at a best estimate, but most of that is in fact dew so it’s probably less than that.

Atacame Desert, Pan American Hwy Peru

It’s a rather hairy trip so I was glad Paul had the window seat.  I've seen ‘The Wages of Fear’ and many of the trucks we passed had ‘Combustibles’ written in big letters and road is littered with roadside memorials to travelers killed on the road.  This year the remodeled Paris to Dakar rally was actually held from Lima to Santiago and some of this of road was included.

Mining and Irrigation change the landscapr

There was plenty of evidence of mining and also of squatters who set up ‘humpies’ and then demand water and power and then on sell them.  Our tour guide was somewhat disparaging about this black market behaviour.

Pan American Highway

We went to Arequipa in the main to see the Convent of Santa Catalina not opened to the public until 1970 although it had been operating (and still does) as a nunnery since 1579.  

Santa Catalina convent - detail

The old city has a (another!?) UNESCO heritage listing from 2000, and the city is very proud of its literary heritage culminating with the endowment of a Nobel Laureate for Jorge Mario Pedro Vargas Llosa in 2010.

Arequipa at night

It is known as the White City not because its buildings are white (and they are), but because for many generations the Spanish did not intermarry and this kept the population up to 80% ‘white’.  Now, like most of Peru the population is mestizos of mixed race.  It’s 2330 metres above sea level and surrounded by snow-capped volcanoes – it only snows in summer as there’s no moisture in winter for the snow to fall.  It is situated on the Chili River which means ‘cold’ as it flows from the Andes.

Volcano from Santa Catalina Monastery

It is also the centre of textile manufacturing for the very rare vicuna (scarf $800, coat $8,000), baby alpaca and Guanaco.  Chanel and Armani come here to supervise the manufacture of the cloth for their finest suits.  I passed on this, but did buy a rather nice pair of earrings.

We’re now on our way to Chile – what fun!!

Natural wonder of Peru: Ballestas Islands

Islas Ballestas is a small group of 3 islands sometimes referred to as the Peruvian Galapagos – OK that’s a tough call, but they are very interesting and teeming with wildlife.

Islas Ballestas

Both the port of Paracas and the neighbouring city of Pisco were devastated by an earthquake of 8.0 magnitude in 2007 and many hundreds of people were killed.  They are still rebuilding and Paracas is one of those places where mass market tourism is not evident: it’s either 5 star or backpackers.

Sightseeing boats

As a tourist we cannot actually land on the islands – you just sail around them in a specially designed boat and can get very close.  Every 3-5 years the guano from (mainly) the cormorants is harvested under strict supervision; there are also two resident caretakers.

All the animals and birds live in harmony as there is plentiful fish food for all – the only issues arise when  the males of a species attack another for mating purposes – most of the bull sea lions have two wives – h’mm I think you can do the maths.  There endangered Humboldt penguins, Peruvian Terns, cormorants, pelicans, boobies etc. etc., plus the numerous sea lions with their pups

 ' Maternity Beach' Ballestas Is

Humboldt Penguins

Thousands of birds

On the way to the Islas you pass El Candelabro a geoglyph of unknown origin.  As the area is so dry, there is no organic matter to date them.  Pottery found around the site has been dated to 200 BC but in reality no-one really knows.  They are 130 metres high.

El candelabro

Unlike the nearby Nazca lines there are not recognisable symbols of a certain culture and they have been attributed to everyone from the Freemasons, pirates, a reference to an hallucinogenic drug and a memorial to an old pre Inca god.  They are dug about a metre deep and were first noted by the Spanish explorers.

The islands are noisy and in part smelly – but it all adds to the character and natural beauty.   

Natural arches Ballestas Is

Lima, Peru – life and colour

Well what a city – I guess I was expecting a bit less from Peru’s capital and most populous city.  One third of the country’s 30 million people live here as it is growing at an alarming rate as people (usually very poor) from the country or mountains come to the big smoke to work.  Remember you can click on any of the pictures should you want a larger view.

Peru has had a somewhat chequered political history and they are certainly glad that is behind them.

Lima is elegant, with charming inhabitants and plenty to do.  We’re here in the summer – they only have two seasons: summer and winter, so although it was bright and sunny for us, it is grey for many months of the year – we were told this is the reason the buildings are so colourful.

Plaza Mayor de Lima

Apparently in winter there can be some rather odd smells that hang over the city – the Incas knew that and that is why they were happy to the Spaniards to settle in this spot.  The rainfall is minimal (13mm of rain a year), but every now and then the city is affected by El Nina which influences both temperature and rainfall.  Water is sourced from Rimac River that flows from the Andes.

There is much pomp and circumstance around the Presidential Palace and we were there for the weekly changing of the guard with the horses and guards in full regalia - thousands flock to see it each Sunday - though there were police on hand in case there was a protest.

Changing of Guard Lima

It was founded in 1535 by Francisco Pizarro – who is also buried here.  Although much of the architecture is from the 16^th and 17^th centuries, the city has been damaged by earthquakes over the years and this means that many structure that appear to be stone are actually wooden as its flexibility withstands the ‘quakes better.  It has been a UNESCO world Heritage site since 1988.

Cathedral of Lima - some the structure is wooden

Wooden Ceiling in Lima's cathedral c 16th C

The food in Peru is described as the best in South America, and our sample certainly reinforced this.  Apart from the national drink Inca Cola – it’s super sweet and has a vague pineapple and banana flavor to it; Paul of course loved it.

Inca Cola - does it glow in the dark?

The other national drink is Pisco Sour made from a grape brandy mixed with lemon/lime juice, egg white and bitters.  Ceviche (raw marinated fish) is known worldwide but they are also fond of chicken – the popular chain Norky’s has a certain meaning to Australians – wonder what their chicken breast burger is like??

Norky's Chicken chain

Moving on from downtown Lima is the coastal resort area of Miraflores.  Abundant with 5* hotels, swanky shops it also has a multitude of public parks and beaches.  Probably the most famous park is the Park of Love modeled on Gaudi’s Park Guell in Barcelona

Park of Love, Miraflores, Lima

Another view of park in Miraflores, Peru

but there is also Kennedy Park where the local cat population is encouraged to remain, where they are pampered by local cat lovers – nothing like the cats of the Coliseum in Rome.  Miraflores is the playground of Lima and families flock to the beaches and paragliding is popular.

Lima is also home to the oldest University in the Americas, San Marcos University founded in 1551 and they take their education very seriously.  Both the Monastery of San Francisco and the Cathedral of Lima have extensive libraries with items in many languages dating back to the 16^th C.

Library - Cathedral of Lima

Of course there are many thousands of people who live in pueblos jovenes on the outskirts of Lima  but this not prevent the city from being a lively and elegant cosmopolitan capital.  Two days was not enough…

Hello to my friends!

Hi. We are currently heading to our last Peruvian port and I thought you might like to see me relaxing with a local beer after meeting with the Watermelon King and his major domo at lunch.

Peru – Trujillo, Chan Chan and the Sun and Moon Temples

Heard of Peruvian hairless dogs?

 What about Peruvian Paso horses?  

Stock photo, but what we saw - camera battery was flat

Nup, neither had we.  How long were the Incas part of Peruvian history and what happened before they arrived?  Well I guess we found out all about these pressing questions that had been keeping no-one awake today.

We arrived in the fairly unscenic port of Salaverry this morning as an access to the rather more scenic city of Trujillo in northern Peru. 

It, like Peru’s economy is growing rapidly – the city is full of half-finished houses: they build what they can afford and finish it later when a few more dollars come in.

Eaten any Peruvian asparagus lately?  Well the locals don’t touch it as it’s

1.       Too expensive for them to eat

2.       Not part of their culture anyway

3.       A lifesaver of their economy – so eat with relish as we did with dinner ce soir.

We had a fascinating day looking at (UNESCO heritage again) relics from two pre Inca cultures and one post Spanish conquest in this lively and historical city.  The excavations are relatively recent: 1964 for Chan Chan and 1991 for the Sun and Moon temples.  Refreshingly, we were a group of relatively few tourists wandering these developing but amazing locations dating from 100 AD to 1300 AD.

As an added bonus after these rather strenuous tours we had a lunch at a local ranch watching the Peruvian Paso (walking) horses whose agility is quite amazing – and very treasured by the population - see above. We were also treated to a display of Marinera dancing – they were trying to set up a Guinness world record for this type of dancing, in central Trujllio, whilst we were there.

Trujillo was named by conquistador Francis Pizarro in 1534 after his hometown in Spain – many of the elegant two storey buildings are now one storey after being razed by earthquakes in the past. 

We visited a very swish home - now a bank

 where Simon Bolivar had signed the Independence Treaty for the city in 1820.

Desk where independence treaty signed

 The Incas were actually in the area for only 100-150 years before being conquered by the Spanish in the 16th C - the very proud Moche people (pronounced something like Motchay) were in residence beforehand and had established huge adobe temples only recently discovered; 

Moche Temple of the Moon c 200 AD

Detail of the Moche god - Temple of the Moon

they in turn were conquered by the Chimu people who established Chan Chan c 1200 AD - much destroyed by erosion and rain due to its coastal location; excavation and restoration continues.

Chan Chan ruins - external walls were originally 12 metres high

The grey on grey landscape and the erratic rainfall from El Nino has actually helped to preserve yet destroy these adobe structures – the heavy rainfall every 50 odd years was seen as a bad sign from angry Gods yet irrigation has been used for thousands of years to propagate the corn and potatoes as staple food for the locals – though sugar cane and rice has also entered the equation.

We also saw the coastal town of  Huanchaco where reed fishing boats have been used (and are still used) for hundreds of years, but is now also on the surfing trail

There’s also the wonderful Pisco Sours: a lemon/lime drink made with the grape distilled Pisco and limon, sugar syrup and egg white - it's a source of debate as to its origin between Peru and Chile - a bit like the Pavlova debate between Australia and New Zealand.  Also it's rumoured there are very tasty beers – more to come on those.  Off to Lima tomorrow for three days as we (quelle horreur) chose not to got to Machu Picchu.