Valparaiso, Chile – Wow!

This major Chilean port has been on my ’must do’ list since I was about 8 – it’s hard to explain why – but at least visiting it has realised that dream in a very delightful way.

Most ports are a bit tatty almost anywhere in the world and we rather like that slightly run down, but colourful character they retain - and Valparaiso certainly did not let us down.

Colourful buildings; Naval Headquarters Museum at top

It retains a strong Naval identity – developed in part by an Englishman called Lord Thomas Cochrane in the early 1800s just after Chile’s independence from Spain.    He based its structure on the British Navy and elements of that remain today.   Chile is a ‘shoe-string’ country with an enormous coastline in relation to its land area and the British Naval sentiment that you cannot be a master of your country unless you are also a master of your seas continues here. 

Naval Headquarters  - Main  CitySquare

Valparaiso is also the birthplace of John Christian (Chris) Watson (1867 – 1941) Australia’s 3^rd (and first Labour) Prime Minister - for a few months in 1904.

It’s built over a number of hills rather like San Francisco and in common with that city is subject to earthquakes: both cities suffered devastating earthquakes in 1906 and Valparaiso continues to do so, most recently in February 2010.  It was granted UNESCO World Heritage status (again) in 2003.

Although established in the 16^th century by the Spanish, it did not really get going until the Navy was established in 1818 and worldwide trade routes were opened.  Few buildings survive from the pre 1906 earthquake – this is the oldest official building from the 1850s with one of the original 1952 trolley buses – not a great photo but you get the idea.

Contrast of downtown Valparaiso

The city thrived from the mid 1850s but with opening of the Panama Canal in 1914, things went downhill rather rapidly as clearly a new, shorter trade route was available. In recent years however, the increase in the size of ships and the new Trans America Highway between Brazil and Chile has revived the port, though the effect of the opening of the new third (wider) lock in 2014 in Panama is unknown.

View from Ascensore rail

The shipping trade however also provided the city with its building materials: the ships carrying saltpetre from Chile arrived with ballast from Europe and America of Oregon pine, corrugated iron and stone.  These built the houses and roads respectively – even the most elegant of houses has corrugated iron facades reminiscent to us of both Kalgoorlie and Broken Hill – and the Oregon pine was certainly featured in Fremantle for probably the same reason.

Corrugated iron elegance?

Unlike the more Northern countries of South America, the part of South America was fairly sparsely populated pre Spanish conquest.  This meant that people of many nationalities settled here and this is reflected in the mish-mash of architectural styles, food and people that make it so endearing.  Despite its Heritage listing some of the colour restrictions that apply to some sites in the world are not enforced in Valparaiso.  The houses were generally painted with whatever paint was left over from repairing a ship in port and this still applies today.

Variety is the spice....

To add to the character, there are funny little ‘ascensores’ – funicular railways – that get everyone around the steep streets.  There are still 12 operating today and people use them with the indifference of using a pedestrian crossing – a trip is about 30 cents.

Ascensore funicular railway

The oldest ascensore station in Valparaiso

Sadly, many of these photos were taken in the morning when it was cloudy, but bright sunshine from noon highlighted the cities vibrancy even more.  It’s not a spot for everyone – dogs roam the streets at will, building maintenance is optional, graffiti really is everywhere, wiring haphazard and the always impending earthquakes could be off putting but we, and many others, can’t wait to return.

Delightful disrepair

We’re on our way to Puerto Montt still in Chile and potentially the start of true cold weather – we’re already further south than I have ever been.  It will be our first tender port (where the ship drops anchor and then you climb on a smaller boat to get ferried in, I didn't realise what that meant before) – what fun!